March 2016: Floor Painting, “Truck Area” insulation/subfloor installation.

Posted in : 2016, History, Interior Work, March, painting, subflooring on by : Tai , freemiumfreemiumfreemium Comments: 0

Hi all,

March 4

Painting the bus had a not-so surprising amount of prerequisites I was putting off: namely cleaning entirely, and covering the man holes. I also covered the small bolt/screw/nail holes with some rubber flashing tape. (featured here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00…ilpage_o02_s00) the pictures in the end will show these, they just look like electric tape on the floor. I don’t know if this is a good plan or not, I just copied the good news bus and was into the idea.

We painted the bus! The insulating beads(or should I say sand) came in time and we mixed them into the primer 1/3 ratio. We went through 3 quarts of primer throughout this process

 

So here’s some posts from march.  The insulating beads mentioned are hy-tech ceramic insulating beads.  They sell an elastomeric paint called “bus-kote” which is supposedly very good, however one of the members of the skoolie community Jazty conducted some tests which he concluded that insulating beads are slightly effective in the sense that they make the paint thicker which makes the paint more insulating, however they do not infact prove to be worth the high cost of them.  You can find that post here.  Okay back to the post.

march-8

We painted the walls as well, Nana in action

march-4

my shirt was probably two sizes too small

march-7

Post Notes:   The metal wheel bracket you see should’ve been removed BEFORE PAINTING.  That bit me in the butt later, you’ll probably see a posting regarding that.  Back to history

This was from a few days ago, I pulled the rear walls off (which I was putting off along with a few other things which I forget). I was reading on one of the forums about people not wanting to remove the walls and insulation so I thought I would take a picture of the insulation I pulled out of the rear wall.

march-13

And this is why you remove the walls.  Because that 30 year old insulation can be absolutely disgusting.

Questions/comments:
Below is the manhole, I finally took a clear picture of it. I’m assuming this is my transmission? ( I clearly know little about mechanics). Since it was made accessible, I decided that I will try to make it so it can be accessed for future use.

march-14

Post Notes:  Answer:  Yes it is transmission access.

My next question is a close up of the prior shown hole, it has two dc cables in it, what do you think this is for?

march-16

Post Notes:  I never really confirmed it but I’m pretty sure this is a gas tank level sender (as suggested by user family wagon)

Then lastly, what do you think this thing is? it is around maybe the front left corner of the driver seat, I have no idea what it is!

march-15

Post Notes:  That is a battery disconnect switch, very useful but it does not have a knob.  They are supposedly cheap to replace but it would be a lot of work for me to replace it now.  If anyone is curious I can show picture of it connecting to the battery but they look crappy and seemed pretty self explanatory.

I have changed my priorities, getting the bus running again is the top priority! Rather than insulating the full bus, I intend to insulate/ply the front section so I can get the heaters re-attached and the driver seat re-bolted in. From there I will re-evaluate my priorities, but I’m thinking something along the lines of: dc electrical sorting/cleaning, water/gas/electric layout planning.

next relevant post from 3/20.

I finished painting the interior of the bus more or less, I slacked a bit on the pictures for a few days so here’s a picture of the bus after the 2nd or 3rd coat.

march-1

Circled in Red (seat racks I think), I neglected to remove these. This procrastination really bit me in the butt later, despite how obvious it was that I should’ve taken care of this prior to painting I just didn’t do it – I’m sure some of you may understand this flaw in human nature. I ended up taking a chunk out of my day off to get these out/cleaned/painted over, but at the end of the day my common sense beat my lazyness and we got err done!

After the paint dried, I carefully measured everything so I could sloppily cut out a practice cutout on this cardboard box.

march-2

I learned over the past two weeks, that 1. I am not good at measuring. 2. I am not good at reading my measurement notes. 3. I am just as bad at cutting. You’ll notice in these pictures that I keep putting the screwdriver into the driver seat mount holes. Maybe it’s a guy thing, maybe it’s just me – I got some very nice amusement out of putting my screwdriver shaft into the bus’s exposed holes. It also helped me keep everything aligned.

After using so much focus to cut my cardboard cutout, I ended up getting lazy for the insulation and just traced around the cardboard to get the insulation in. “Insulation is easy enough to cut” I tell myself “I’ll just cut more if needed. This thought process maintained throughout all the layers.

I didn’t take a picture between the prior and this next, but in short I laid down some insulation, put down a radiant barrier that I had express shipped from Amazon(I was drunk on hope when I ordered it, I finally got it down a a week later).

march-3

9/16 Ply I think. The upper right side had some wierd stuff going on, it took about as long as the rest of the cutout. You can see some shiny radiant barrier around the edges, also the screwdriver.

I actually did the next step way later, because I had no intention to do it, but I finally overcame my lazyness adn got er done. For my transmission “manhole”, I ended up making a seperate hatch cover with 2×1/4 inch wood I had laying around sandwiching the insulation. I used my tried and tested “measure twice, cut thrice method”.

march-9march-10march-11

actually added some radiant barrier here too after I took this picture).

Here’s the switch I ended up securing, I later read your guys recommendations to get a new switch, I honestly don’t know if I have it in me to put in a new switch, it’s something to meditate on maybe. I could do it smoothly before putting in the drivers side heater, I just don’t really feel like it I guess. Is this switch something I can expect to break on me? I guess I don’t even know if it works yet.

march-14

Post notes:  Yes it works.

Here’s me preparing the rubber flooring cut, with my treasured cardboard box: this was one of the few times I remembered to put everything up side down for the cut. I gave way too much slack because, that’s what I do. I added 2 inches on the front and that left for some really satisfying results (to my standard)

march-6

pre-hole cut

march-18

Got this shiny vent thing to replace the old passenger side fresh air intake vent.

march-20

Since then I got the passenger side heater in, I still have slight anxiety that I have the hose hooked up backwards (inlets and outlets), but I’m going to roll with it for now.

I still haven’t gotten the driver side heater in, I was going to do it last night but I decided that I should scrub off some rust and repaint it first. I also made a new fresh air vent with posterboard, afterwards I decided I should remake this with metal, I don’t have pictures at the moment. That just about sums it up.

Oh not a huge deal, but I’ve been curious, do you know what these valves on the right are for?

march-5

This is a huge deal actually.  These valves are for the air compressor.  It is important to drain these regularly to prevent moisture build up in the air tanks ultimately preventing rust/tank leaks.

Regarding the Air Tank Valves

as the user Cowlitzcoach advised

The three valves are drain valves.

One is for the wet tank. This should be opened at the end of every day and allowed to drip all night long.

One is for the front tank (the tank that is plumbed to the front brakes). It should be opened at least every time the bus is serviced. It should not have any moisture in it.

And one is for the rear tank (the tank that is plumbed to the rear brakes). It too should be opened at least every time the bus is serviced. It should not have any moisture in it.

If the front and rear tanks do have moisture in them then you need to open them on a regular basis until they don’t have moisture coming out of them.

You do NOT want moisture getting into the brake cans. Not only will the moisture mess them up, if you should get into some freezing weather you run the real risk of your brakes freezing up on you. Either not allowing the spring brake to release or not allowing one or more of your brake cans to operate properly.

 

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